Fashion Photography

 Günther Krampf, Portrait of an Unidentfiied Female Fashion Model,  about 1940.  Ferrotyped gelatin silver print. Approx. 10 x 8 in. Public Domain Image, courtesy of the J. Paul Getty Museum, Los Angeles.

Fashion photography is a genre of photography that is centered around clothing, accessories and other fashion items. Photos are usually taken to advertise products, seen in magazines or modernly on clothing brand’s social media. The term fashion photography arose in the 19th century, but it really began to flourish in the 20th century with the boom of magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. This period marked a shift as photography became a primary medium for showcasing and selling fashion, blending artistry with commercial intent. To many, Edward Steichen is credited as the founder of fashion photography with his use of lighting and portraiture to make the clothes look lavish and elegant, pleasing to the consumer’s eye. The rise of fashion photography has contributed to periods throughout the 20th century including World War 2 and The Great Depression. Fashion magazines like Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue served as a distraction for people from the poor state of the world around them, and clothing ads started targeting more of a feminine audience after the WWII draft. Because of the state of cities like Paris during the war, New York City began to flourish and become a major headquarters for fashion photography. Over time, fashion photography became an essential tool in shaping cultural ideals of beauty and style, reflecting and influencing the world of fashion through its evolution.

Fashion photography shows us how the use of the camera has been through many changes over time. As technology develops and photographs become more common, they start to be used in daily life. In this specific example, we see photography being used as an advertisement. Models pose in clothing made by a specific designer in order to promote the product and convince people to purchase it. Fashion photography often is unrealistic. For example, especially today, lots of editing goes into these photos to make the product more appealing to the audience.  A big conflict within the fashion photography world today is whether or not these photos should show idealized versions of art, or raw and vulnerable images. From Photo Vogue’s, The Reinvention of Dreams, in 1984 Irvin Penn described his job with Vogue as “selling dreams, not clothes.” But, in 1990, the rise of street style and more casual fashion photography emerged, embracing a less unrealistic take on this art form. Between the two decades fashion photography started to shift from an idealized, professional set up to a more documentary style influence. 

Fashion photography’s meaning shifts depending on the era and the person you ask. To some, fashion photography is a campaign; something used for promoting products and pushing advertisements. This is more often than not seen today, with the use of this kind of photography on business websites, billboards, commercials, magazines, and social media posts, for example Zara’s clothing website uses photographs of models in stage lighting and poses to promote their clothing. This use of fashion focuses less on the photography itself, but more on the business technique behind it. People who view fashion photography in this way are also more likely to hang onto the idealized version of photography- the photographs are fueled by profit not art. Some may describe fashion photography as an inspiration art form. This type might be seen in museums, on book covers, magazine covers, social media pages, etc. This is used specifically for art purposes, not for product promotion. People who view fashion photography in this way are more likely to favor a more raw and realistic version of photography. There are many different ways fashion photography can be interpreted and spread. It has gone through changes since its beginning and will continue to do so in the future. 

The main idea of fashion photography is its blend of art and advertising, and how this balance has shifted over time. In its early days, fashion photography was primarily used for advertising. For instance, Edward Steichen, often credited as one of the first fashion photographers, initially photographed a gown as a dare, showing how fashion could also be presented as art. However, the art world didn’t take fashion photography seriously at first because it was seen as more focused on business than creativity.

This perception began to change in the 1960s when photographers like William Klein embraced bold and experimental styles, using bright colors and striking patterns. Around the same time, fashion photography began to take on social issues. Richard Avedon highlighted diversity by including models of color, and Henry Clarke used his work to depict women as strong and independent. These shifts helped fashion photography gain recognition as an art form, leading to its inclusion in exhibitions, museums, and galleries. Today, fashion photography exists at the intersection of campaign and art. It’s everywhere—from high-end fashion magazines to social media—showcasing how this genre continues to evolve and influence culture.

Another key issue in fashion photography is how it reinforces unrealistic ideals of beauty and fashion through advertising. These photos are meticulously edited to look flawless, persuading consumers that they can replicate the perfection depicted if they purchase the clothing. This approach often plays on aspirational desires, crafting “dreams” that appeal to idealized self-images. As described in Vogue's The Reinvention of Dreams, the industry has historically been criticized for perpetuating harmful beauty standards, particularly regarding body size and appearance, with models often judged harshly on their bodies. Despite these challenges, there is a growing movement to redefine these “dreams” in a more inclusive and empowering light. Many modern brands are shifting away from unattainable perfection and embracing more natural aesthetics in their campaigns, promoting healthier, more diverse representations of beauty. This transition reflects a desire to maintain the aspirational quality of fashion while fostering a positive cultural impact​. Though this focuses more on body image and women’s empowerment, clothing brands such as Aerie have changed the way they photograph their models, and who they choose as models. The photos Aerie uses for their clothing website are more relaxed then other advertisements, and are taken in natural lighting to bring a more relatable aspect to their brand. They bring in mostly unedited pictures of women with all different body types and skin colors to try and stop the negative impact typical fashion photography can have on self image. 

Social media and its users have had a huge impact on fashion photography throughout recent years. With the rise of Instagram being used to post photographs in the 2010s, fashion companies followed their lead. When Instagram shoved favor towards photos with dimension as opposed to static, clothing ads started adding more movement and body as well. Social media has been a huge help to the fashion industry showing photographers specifically what people want to see and what to capture. For example during the Black Lives Matter movement in 2020, fashion brands followed activists' requests and started photographing more colored models. Social media has given photographers valuable insights into what consumers desire, influencing how fashion photography evolves in the digital age.

Though social media has been good for business within the fashion photography world, it has brought a lack of speciality and artistic creativity to the photographs. With social media influencers, a lot of brands will reach out to them and have them post their own photos wearing their clothes to promote them. These photos are often not professional and focus more on the influencers than the technique of the photo itself. Consumerism has become such a huge role in fashion photography today that the creativity within these photos on social media are not selling points for consumers anymore. People focus on purchasing the clothes because their favorite influencer wears them, rather than appreciating the art that goes into photography and studying fashion. 

The current landscape is marked by a tension between the need for profit-driven marketing strategies and the pursuit of artistic integrity. Some industry observers are optimistic that new media's inclusive, democratic nature could create a more authentic representation of beauty. Others are suggesting that the push for marketability may continue to stifle artistic expression. As brands navigate these conflicts, the future of fashion photography remains uncertain—whether it will blend consumer appeal with artful craftsmanship or lean further toward commercial simplicity.